Cuban colours

I just returned from Cuba: a nation in transition. I'll leave my deeper thoughts for a next post, but right now I just want to share a few photos that are in my mind typical for Cuba.  The colours of her streets.

Typical art deco building in Havana's Vedado

In Havana you can easily distinguish in which area you are, by looking in at the buildings.  Vedado was built in the first halve of the 20th century: Think roaring twenties, art deco in pastel.

Wandering in the streets of Havana Vieja

Havana Vieja is, at the name says, the old part of the city. Though nowadays you can argue about the 'old':  This area is tourist town, and heavily renovated. But very respectfully renovated I must add.

Walking in Trinidad

Trinidad was built during the sugar boom in the 19th century. Colonial style buildings, super high ceilings, wrought iron lattices, and cobbled streets.

Camaguey

Camagüey is one of the very few cities in Cuba that isn't built in a grid like street pattern. Because it was raided several times by pirates it was actually designed as a maze.

Camaguey

What to do in Helsingfors - Helsinki

We went to Helsinki in juli 2015. Helsinki was not on our 'places-we-must-visit-list', but we had a few stopovers there on our way to and from Asia, and we decided it was about time we got of that airport. And we are happy we did.  The weather forecast was not very good (mostly rain), but turned out pretty well. Since we went in the summer, the days are very long. The sun did set, but was down only for a few hours. So what did we do while we were there?

Helsinki harbour

We visited most of the places that are in the guidebooks and a few places that I read about on different blogs.  Our first evening we walked to the Sibelius monument, the Temppeliaukion kirkko (Rock church, that was closed unfortunately) and after that went into town for a burger and a beer. Then we watched the sun set over Lapinlahti from the Hietaniemen cemetary.

The old Arabia factory

We spent the most of our Friday in town, walking down the Pohjoisesplanadi and the Eteläesplanadi, admiring the gorgeous Jugenstill buildings and the cool stuff in the design shops. I just love Finnish design, so one of the places I wanted to visit was the old Arabia factory. The whole area is now turned into a housing area and really lovely. The factory itself was a tad dissapointing, though I did get my hands on a collectors item from the Iitttala outlet.

Back in town we visited the improptu photo exhibition on the top floor of the Akateeminen Kirjakauppa (Academic bookshop) and of course regularly stopped for coffee with cakes. The Finns do love their cakes.

View from the ferry

There are several markethalls (Kauppahalli) in Helsinki. A nice, albeit touristy one, is near the main harbour: the Vanha Kaupahalli (Old Markethall). Another one is the Hakaniemi Kaupahalli that has the Sunday flea market. Unfortunately the rain was pouring down on Sunday, so we skipped that one. Other places we visited were the Lutheran cathedral and the Russian orthodox cathedral.
Great contrast between the two.

Glooming skies over the Lutheran cathedral

On Saterday it was just lovely weather and we decided to visit one of the islands, and went to Suomenlinna, the old fortress island.  We took a public ferry, and during the boat ride we had a nice view over the Helsinki waterfront.  Suomenlinna consists of five interconnected islands. One has a village on it, and another one still houses the Finnish Naval Academy.  The church dome actually doubles as a light house. I had never seen that before.
The seaside islands are mostly natural, with of course the occasional canon and seawall. It was a lovely day out.
 

Travel tips:

• Buy a public transport pass for several days. Buying a pass for a few days is cheaper than buying single day passes, and it's just relaxing to hop on and off the trams.
• We bought a 4-day pass for 2 zones, since this was the same pice as a 4-day pass for 1 zone and 2 separate airport tickets.
• If you want to visit the Araba factory: take tram 6 or 8 to the second to last stop.
• You can use your day pass for the ferry to Suomenlinna.
• When visiting Suomenlinna: use sunscreen!

Something fishy - Tsukiji Market Tokyo

When you google at 'top things to do in Tokyo' you can almost be sure that Tsukiji fish market will pop up, most notably the tuna auction.
Being a food market lover myself, I really wanted to go there. But... the tuna auction starts at 6 am. And only a limited number of tourists are allowed to attend, so you have to queue at around 4 am. There is no public transport at that time of night (oddly enough Tokyo's public transport stops around midnight?!) so you have to either walk there, take a cab, or wait over a few drinks at one of the nearby pubs.  We opted out of attending the tuna auction, bad tourists...I know!

One of the small stalls

At around 8 am the rest of the inner market opens up to visitors, so there we were. Surrounded by tour groups, we entered the public space.

And now I hear you wondering...How was it??? First impression: way more tourists  than expected, and at the same time less of a tourist trap than expected.  First and foremost, this is a place where people work, no signs which way to go or defined routes. This also means that you have to be carefull not to be overrun by one of the funny, and very fast, carts. Even  though there is hardly any room to walk in between the stalls, the carts race past!

Tuna waiting for a buyer

The fish and seafood they sell is simply amazingly fresh and varies from extraordinary to bizar.  And it is a lot.  The sheer number of sea creatures on sale was mindblowing. It really made us wonder how much longer it takes to empty the oceans.

Super size mollusc

Of course there was an abundance of tuna. Al tuna arrives deeply frozen. Did you know that those beautifull slices of sashimi are precut in to blocks, while frozen, with a industrial band saw? I didn't!

I saw the biggest mussles I ever saw: at least 3 times the size of my hands. Crates of roe, alien crustaceans, unknown molluscs, vibrant octopi and fish in alls size and sorts inlcuding some wiggly, still alive, skewered fish.

Sawing sashimi blocks

The traditional thing to do after visiting the Tsukiji Market is to eat fresh sushi. Most people try to do that in the inner market, but the outer market makes a good alternative if you want somwhere (slightly) less busy.  We didn't do that either... we were such lousy tourists, I know! But the massacre we had just witnessed satiated or need for animal protein.

Vibrant octopi

Supercity - Shanghai

We had already spent 4 weeks in China at that point, mostly visiting ´culturally interesting´ sites such as Xian and Pingyao, when we arrived in Shanghai. And I loved it.  I was in need of some city life....

Pudong skyline

If you have read previous posts , you know I love the emptiness of deserts, or that humbling feeling when you encounter an animal in the wild. I think what really appeals to me, are extremes. Natural or man made. Like when you move through a vibrant metropolis like Shanghai. It reminded me of my first visit to Bangkok in 2003.

One of many little streets

Shanghai in 2009 was full of life and one massive construction site. Combine a superb metro system, chaotic train station and gigantic fly overs with futuristic highrise, traditional temples and labyrinth like residential quarters and you get the basic idea.

Bike ride: Love the contract of old and new buildings

Of course it is absolutely impossible to see all ( or even most) of the city in a few days, so we stuck to the obvious. We went to the Bund, that was under construction, with the Oriental Pearl Tower, the French concession, a few temples, some gardens, little eateries and markets.

French concession

We did a half day bike tour, a dim sum workshop, and wandered. We ate some really good and some not so good food. I love the contrast that was all around. The little boutiques and cafés in The French concession. The Chinese markets, cockroach fights and soup with indistinguishable ingredients in the traditional neighbourhoods. The incense and monks in the temples. We had a blast!

Rooftop bar at the Bund

Mesmerized by the city - Kuala Lumpur

For those of you that don't know it yet... I'm a city girl. Even though I grew up in a village in a country without 'real' cities .
Even in my tiny country I like to live in a city. I like the hustle and bustle, the contradictions, the anonymity of large groups of people, the inventivity that comes from living in a confined space and the chance meetings. 

Petronas towers

So if we're travelling I always try to spend a few days in a BIG city. My favourite used to be Bangkok, but I changed that to Shanghai in 2009. Thus far Asian cities seem more 'alive' to me than Western cities.

Offerings on sale

So when we went to Kuala Lumpur in 2013 I was curious what she would be like. She was... demure. Being in a muslim country means that alcohol and nightlife isn't abundently present.  Not that I need alcohol but it does change the atmophere.

Best satay, one street from the über touristy nigh market

But there are a few nice night markets with lovely street food, lots of big and small shrines and chinese temples. And the contrast old versus new, hitech versus traditional is everywhere.

A few old houses in between modern high rise

So Kuala Lumpur on the whole... I like the multitude of Chinese temples, and some of the street food, but wasn't as vibrant as I had hoped.

One of the many Chinese temples

Katz's - New York

When we went to New York, of course we had a couple of places we really wanted to visit. So like good and proper tourists we went to Central Park, took the Staten Island Ferry and walked the Brooklyn Bridge.

And when we had dinner with fiends (locals), they told us that when we really wanted to be in New York, we HAD to go to Katz's deli and eat a pastrami sandwich, so we did.

Katz's is a retro deli in Manhattens Lower East Side. In this area there are many kosher and kosher style delis. Katz's is a kosher style deli  and considered one of the best, and according to wikipedia: Each week, Katz's serves 10,000 pounds of pastrami 5,000 pounds corned beef, 2,000 pounds of  salami and 12,000 hot dogs.

the diner is covered with signs and photos

We expected that it would be a pretty touristy, since Katz's is featured in several movies, including the most famous scene from 'When Harry met Sally'.... yes, the one in which Meg Ryan is faking it!

And of course the exact table from this movie as a sign above it, but on the whole, the diner felt pretty authentic.

Pickles and salamis waiting to be sold

Lots of locals were eating in and ordering take away. We decided of course on eating in, considering the size of the portions we dicided on sharing a pastrami sandwich.
Served on rye bread, with  musterd and pickles on the side.

Our order