Hazy Haleakala - Maui

We've been back home now for a few weeks. Actually... almost a month already! I've already been back at work for 3 weeks.

But what a trip has it been! we've had a wonderful time, met lovely people, and made amazing memories.

Sunrise at the top carpark

Some of these memories were from our trip to the Haleakala Crater on Maui, Hawaii. When we decided we would stop on Hawaii on our trip home, we looked into places would like to visit.
The sunrise Haleakala Crater is on most lists, and came onto ours as well.
We spend three days on Maui, and checking the weather forecasts we decided to give the sunrise a shot in the 2nd day. That was expected to be the day with the clearest skies.

Walking into the crater

We set our alarm for 3am. Sunrise was at 6:15am, and we had to drive to the top of the volcano before that. From where we stayed (at Lahaina) that is a 1,5 to 2-hour drive.
But in the dark, at Hawaii's winding roads, you have to take some delays into account. There was quite some traffic during the drive, but it was a lovely clear night. We saw millions of stars in the sky above, and villages glowing below.
We arrived at the top at 5am, just in time to get the last parking space at the top car park, and decided to nap for another half hour in the car.

Catching the sunlight in the crater

By the time we woke up half an hour later, we were surrounded by fog. We walked to the top, shivering in the cold wind, and watched the clouds roll in over the top.
Just as we had given up on seeing the sun, the clouds parted and we saw it rise.
After that we went back to the car, drove down to the top visitor centre, and ate our sandwiches.

Clouds in the crater 

It was about 8am by now, so we had the whole day ahead of us. What to with all that time?
we wanted to do a hike in the crater, but unfortunately I wasn't feeling too well (I had had a bad cold for a few days). And every sign we saw warned of the dangers of walking at this altitude when you're not fit...

Taking a break

But even from the visitor centre it looked stunning. We decided to take it slow, walk down for an hour or so, and then slowly go up again.
And we did not regret that, it was absolutely stunning! I never knew that just earth, dirt and rocks could be so beautiful.
Every turn we took, showed a new amazing vista. We took it slow, and enjoyed every minute of it.

As the clouds rolled in to the crater at the far end.

When we walked back up we felt how steep it was. It was a lot harder than going down. Of course that had nothing to do with our fitness, it was just the altitude!
Or at least that's the excuse the signs gave us.
As we walked up, the clouds rolled into the crater. By the time we reached the ridge again, it was really foggy. We drove down through the clouds on our way back.

So many shades of grey and red

Of fire and water - Hawaii

We started this trip with a one-way ticket to Cairns, Australia. We had a rough idea what we wanted to do and when, but like to keep our option open. So about halfway we figured, that since we'd fly home a week before Christmas, we might want to book something asap, so we wouldn't end up with very expensive tickets.

We looked at several routes. The most straightforward thing, would be to have a stopover in Asia, and then home from there. But that didn't feel right. What about going in the other direction? After all, New Zealand is so far away, there's no 'detour', and it would be cool to finally do that round-the-world thing. 

As it happened Air NewZealand had a special: to Hawaii. Now that sounded like a plan, and here we are!

City of refuge, Kona

Now to be honest, Hawaii didn't blow us away. That might have something to do with these three things:

• High expectations.
  There's nothing like high expectations to quickly turn any experience into a deception.
• The weather.
  We simply ran out of luck with that one. As we arrived we'd hoped that it would clear up, but it didn't. It had been raining in Hilo for 10 consecutive days, and the storm was forcast to linger over the island for another week. Roads were closed due to snowfall and flash floods, tours cancelled and the Hawaiian weather even made it onto the news back home in Europe.
• Feeling poorly.
  That does change your experience. Flying in, I was coming down with a cold, that lasted a full week. Nauseous, head aches, runny nose, sore throat, overall lethargy, the works. We still did some stuff, but things like going on a proper walk, were just too much for me. We went out every day, but I wasn't enjoying it as much as I know I would have otherwise.

Having said that, we did do some pretty amazing stuf! Like what? Here's some of our highlights.

On day 2 we drove up an active volcano, Kilauea, and watched the lava in the crater splatter and blow. We were told that we were lucky, since quite often the lava isn't visible at all, because its normal level is a lot lower. That night after dinner we went back to the crater and saw the lava in the dark of night which was even more spectacular. Especially because it was a lot quieter that during the day, and we could actually hear the spatter and howling going on. Talk about force of nature...

Kilauea crater

From Kilauea lava still continues to flow down to the sea, the island grows when it solidifies in the water. The hike to the ocean entry point takes approximately 2 hours on way: too much. But we did see the massive steam plume from a distance. Usually there are boats to the entry point, but those didn't go out because of the high winds. We decided to do a short petroglyph walk instead, and that was pretty special too. 

Big steam vent where lava flows into the sea

Now day 3 was definitely a highlight: we had booked a manta ray dive. This was really the reason we went to Big Island. Luckily I only had a sore through and some mild headaches that day, so I could make it (or maybe I just suppressed the rested since it came back with a vengeance the next few days). We headed out of the marina at 3pm, and saw some dolphins on the boat ride to the dive spot. We started with an easy afternoon dive, on which we saw some cool stuff: moray eels, garden eels, a Pacific barracuda, a small turtle, some big crowns of thorns, both yellow and grey trumpetfish, black long-nosed angle fish, very weird lizard fish, and a massive Neptune's cockle. 

Trumpet fish

After 65minutes we surfaced, it was a really nice dive, though not spectacular. Saying that, I think we must consider ourselfs spoiled. Read that final line of the last paragraph again. Seeing all that, and then labelling a dive nothing spectacular. Hmmmm... We might need to abstain from diving until we've got our perspective back. 

But first, it was time for supper. The crew had layed out different wraps and cookies, which we ate while watching the sunset. When it got dark we got a briefing for the main event: the manta night dive. During the briefing we saw the first big manta shadow under the water's surface, the exitement rippled through the crowd.

Lizard fish

The general plane of this dive is that you plunge in, swim to a designated sandy spot, and wait at the bottom for whatever shows up, while pointin your torch over your head. We got a few extra kilos of weight in our BCDs, so we would easily stay put, because the swell had come up even more. To attract the mantas, there would be lights from the surface down, and the bottom up. The mantas feed on zooplankton, and those zooplankton gather in light beams, thus making an easy meal for an intelligent manta.

Me with torch

There were 4 groups of 4 divers, each with their own guide. We were in the second group to descent, and gathered at a spot at about 10m deep. We each had a small torch, but the guides had places bottom and surface lights near our spot, and boy, those lights sure were bright. It kind of felt like a circus arena. But within seconds we saw our first manta ray. What a sight! She flew over our head into the beam, summer salting on her way back for a second helping. We could look right into her open mouth, seeing the gills on the insides. Spectacular.

We huddled together trying to stay stable in the swell. That was tricky. Our guides had told us to pick up one of the boulders strewn around if we had trouble. I flinched at the thought of picking up a rock, bare-handed even, but couldn't think of another option, so I did it anyway.

With my new found stability I could really enjoy the show in front of me. Thousands of silver fish swam in vertical shoals around us. A manta with a wingspan of 2.5-3meters flew into the light, and disappeared again into darkness like a ghost. During feeding it came so close that it actually brushed our heads. I sometimes simply forgot to breath.

Manta ray up close

After about 50minutes our dive guide decided our time was up, and we needed to go back to the boat. Getting up the first thing I saw was a rock fish, right next to where we had been sitting. These are highly venomous, and one of the reasons you do not pick up rocks! 

Another reason are the sea urchins that I suddenly noticed all around. We swam towards the boat, watching some nocturnal fish hunting. On the boat we had a nice hot shower and instant cocoa with biscotti. But who cares about that, we just saw a manta ray up close, feeding, for almost an hour!

Another great experience was going up the Haleakala Volcano on Maui. Seeing the sunrise from the summit is supposed to be spectacular, so on our list. We spent 3 nights on Maui, and had looked online for the best day to do this. Day 6 looked promising. We got up at 3am to make the 2hour drive from Lahaina to the summit, some 3000meters higher. As we drove up the volcano, it was a lovely clear night. The stars were very visible in the sky, and the towns below glowed in the dark. 

We were just in time for one of the last spots at the parking lot, when we arrived at 5am. It was close to freezing when we stepped out, so we decided to have a nap in the car for the hour we had to wait. As we woke again at 6am the clouds were drifting in... So unfortunately no clear sky sunrise for us, but it turned out to be impressive nonetheless. 

Haleakala sunrise

After an hour or so, we went back to the car and had breakfast. We had planned to do a hike down the crater today, but I really didn't feel very fit. But didn't want to miss out either. We figured we would just slowly start to descent, take many breaks, and after an hour or so would start walking up again. It was only 8am and we had the rest of the day to do this. That turned out to be a very good plan. What a magnificent landscape...

The track was easy, but reasonably steep. And every turn revealed different perspectives and more colours. 

After slowly making our way up again, we drove back down around noon. And that's when my problems began... My ears simply would not equalise. When this happens while diving, I go up again, but we could hardly stay on the volcano. We did stop for a while, and after some time I was able to 'pop' them. But it hurt. And I heard sound I've never heard before, that was unnerving. 

I've always had pressure-sensitive ears, and I figure I must've put them through a bit too much. These last 6 days: 4 flights, 2 scuba dives and 3 drives up over 2500m. And all while having a cold. To make matters worse, my next flight is in two days. A trip to the pharmacy provided a fairly aggressive nose spray, let's hope that does the trick.

Keanae peninsula on the road to Hana

On day 7, our last day on Hawaii, we (more accurately Rodie) drove the road to Hana. A narrow, winding road with many one-lane bridges. Though not nearly as narrow as the road on the north east coast we drove on day 5. The views were really nice, the waterfalls pretty and the greenery spectacular at places. Honestly I did not think it was all that it's hyped to be. But Rodie really liked it, and we usually like the same type of things, so I blame my stuffy head for that. In retrospect I maybe should've stayed in bed. But then again, I'm not in Hawaii that often, so wanted to do as much as I could. 

Day 8, we're flying to San Francisco, fingers crossed that the ears make it in one peace too!

Oh and we've lost our cord to get photos from my camera and upload them, so this post will be edited sometime in the near future with more photos...

In the shadow of Mt. Doom - Tongariro Alpine Crossing

5am, the sound of an alarm clock. Ours. Way too early in my world. But today we'll walk the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, and our shuttle pickup is at 5:50.

This hike is supposed to be the best day hike in New Zealand. And, no less important for a fan, the site of Mordor and the infamous Mt. Doom...
From our hostel in Taupo, it is about an 1,5 hour drive to the start of the track. We quickly make and eat breakfast, pack our bag with snacks, lunch, water and some extra clothing and go outside. Just as the birds wake up.

Amazing ice formations

During our drive we watch the sun rise, the first rays of light give the snow capped peaks in pink hues over lake Taupo. At 7:20 we get a briefing and then we start walking. It's still freezing and we're glad we've got many layers on. 

The hike is divided into sections, to help you time your progress, the time for the main track is usually 6-8 hours. 

Through the Mangatepopo Valley

The first section is from Mangatepopo Valley to Soda Springs, and quite flat. After about 15 minutes we start peeling, the wind proof top layer isn't necessary as we're warming up. It's still freezing, but there's no wind, and the sun that peeks over Mt Ngauruhoe (Mt Doom's real name), is strong. We apply sunscreen and walk passed low vegetation and icy pools. A boardwalk leads us through the frozen marshes. Every few minutes one or several people overtake us, but we are too busy savouring the views to mind. Before we know it, about an hour later, we are already at Soda Springs. Also the site of the last (busy!) toilet.

View from the Devil's Staircase

After Soda Spring we start the real ascent. The climb to South Crater is a challenging one. Mostly stairs, one after another. In between we seize many opportunities to admire the views (code for catching our breath...) But everyone here is panting, it's not just us! And the views are just stunning. After about an hour we are past the Devils Staircase, and decide that it's time for morning tea. The water in our thermos is still warm, which is good, since it's quite cold once you stop moving! We look back at the route we've walked and are amazed at how far we've come, and that that boardwalk definitely wasn't level either. While we take our break right at the foot of Mt Doom, we see the fresh snow on its slopes from the day before. And from its top continuously appear white plumes, Mt Doom is smoking...

Looking back at Mt Doom from the flat South Crater

We then walk on over a small the ridge, and are at South Crater. This is actually not a crater, but an glacially formed basin, filled with volcanic debris. Whatever it is, it's an amazing section. Though bit muddy, it's really impressive to walke across an empty space, bordered by volcanic ridges.  

At the other end is the last climb to the highest point of today. As we approach it we see people snaking up the track to the top. Slowly but steadily we climb up the first half of it. It's icy, slippery and rocky, so we have to focus on where to place our feet. Halfway up many people take a break, and we do too. We drink another cup of tea (only luke warm by now) and eat a nut bar. And admire the views, completely different from the last stop, and even more stunning.

Looking back from the top of the Red Crater

We move on to the top of the Red Crater. This part is really tricky. The track is in the shadow of the ridge, thus not thawed by the sun and on top of that, very narrow. On the right hand side is a rock wall, and on the left side a steep slope goes a hundred meters down. This is the first time (and it turns out, the only time) a steel chain is attached to the rock as a handhold. As we make it to the ridge, the smell of sulphur increases, and steam rises from the ground all around. On the left side we see Blue Lake in the distance, on the right we see the most bizarre and amazing rock formations. 

Looking forward from the top of the Red Crater

Another few meters to the top of the ridge. And what a spectacular view: the brilliant Emerald Lakes lay beneath us, Blue Lake further ahead and in between the Central Crater with patches of snow in between the whirls of steam. After a while we descend: a tricky business! The ash and pumice form a very loose surface: imagine a high sand dune. But with a ravine on both sides. 

Hopscotching we make our way down, and find a nice rock to have lunch on. Bacon and egg sandwiches in sulphur steam, that's a new experience. As we eat our sandwiches, they get harder to bite... That actually freeze while we eat! No wonder I feel like I have to eat with gloves on!

We don't sit for long, fearing we might get too cold.

Crossing the Central Crater

We make our way across the Central Crater towards Blue Lake walking occasionally through snow. Another quick ascent and were at the shore of Blue Lake. We start our final descent. Having said that, we're only halfway! We walk another hour over a narrow track towards the hut (and toilets) on the other side. Though it offers beautiful views, of both the geothermal area and Lake Taupo ahead, this part is simply not as spectacular and surprising as the previous sections. We walk through patches of snow, see several fumaroles, and the first flowering plants. Once we are on the others side of the craters, the track snakes down to Ketetahi hut. Ever winding we see the hut from above, but it takes a long time before we are actually there. In reality probably half an hour or so. Next to the path are the Ketetahi Springs. We can see and smell them, but they are not accessible.

On our way to Ketetahi hut

The final section is from the Ketetahi hut to the car park, where our shuttle awaits. This is the part where we are struggling. It's all downhill, and with many stairs on the way. Did I tell you 'bout my crappy knees before? I seriously dislike going downhill. And this time, I was not alone in my struggling. Maybe we are getting to old for this? But nothing to be done about it, we have to go on. Only 6 more kilometres.

It's getting a lot warmer now, and I remove another few layers of clothing. Going downhill so steeply does cause a interestingly quick change in vegetation. We start at low Alpine grasses, then walk through larger bushes, and after another turn we are suddenly in a forest! 

We've crossed a little stream higher up the hill, but by the sounds of it, we found a bigger one now. A sign tells us this us a Lahar hazard zone :  'Move quickly through', 'No stopping' and 'If you hear noise from upstream, do not enter'. 

We decide it's safe enough, and go on. We are at the carpark, and the shuttle, at half past three. Tired, but very content. 

 View from the Red Crater forward

And if you're wondering how the day after is? I'm sore all over! And we're staying in a first floor hostel, without a lift...