Saturday 30 July 2016

Lilly Pilly Gully circuit walk - Wilsons Promontory

No, i didn't make that up.... That's actually the name of the walk we did at Wilsons Prom. But first things first.
We had a long days drive to get here, we drove from our overnight stop in Bega to Tidal River, which took about 7 hours continuous driving, we arrived at the gates of Wilsons Promontory National Park around 5pm; sunset. Now, we're not insured if we drive in the dark in nonresidential areas because of the wildlife. And we understand why, since we have seen so much roadkill already! But since we really wanted to spend the night insite the park, we decided to continue during dusk, but carefully. We only had only 30km to go and it wasn't dark yet. 

The campsite at Tidal River

But at dusk is when most animals come out, and we did seen some wombats and even emus in that last stretch! So cool.
We arrived at Tidal River, the Park's only town at half past 5. Or town... It's actually just a very large campsite (484 sites!), with several amenity blocks, a few cabins and a general store and visitor information centre. The last two were both closed by the time we got there. We had hoped to get one of the only 20 powered sites, so we could put on our heater, but how to arrange that? We didn't see anyone alive, accept for the birds... Until we discovered a printout on the notice board: a laminated card would serve as an 'after hours permit' and a little map showed where the powered sited were located.
Only then did we realise we stood in the middle of a campsite, not a car park....  We got the card (we were the first campers that night) and paid the fee the next morning.

Wombat!

When we walked to the amenities, we saw some of the larger brown blocks moving: those were wombats! And I happen to think they're über cute. And if they were a little more sensible they would be a tad more afraid of humans. IMHO. 
A wombat looks like a crossing between a giant Guinea pig and a koala. And it grazes. Right next to you. Unless you scare it like Rodie did when he accidentally walked into one, then it makes a funny noise and runs. Or more accurately, it wobbles.

View from the circuit track

After a good nights sleep, all the wombats disappeared again, and we decided to take a walk: first the Lilly Pilly Link Walk to Lilly Pilly Gully, then the first part of the Mt Bishop Summit Track, until we reached the Lilly Pilly Circuit Walk, then the boardwalk circuit, taking the Lilly Pilly Nature Walk back to Lilly Pilly Gully, ending with the Lilly Pilly Link Walk to Tidal River again. Too many Lilly Pilly's in there.... Though we didn't see that many. I think.... We did see lots of bird. Most impressive was the yellow tailed black cockatoo. And the funny little birdies that hop around everywhere here. 

The path 

We had quite some rain during the night, but just a few drops (and lots of sunshine) while we walked. It was really good walking weather, about 13', so we didn't get too warm. The first 1 hour (about 3.6km) was a moderately steep uphil walk, then another 1.5 hours (4.2km) easy flat and downhill. 600m was on the boardwalk, were we stopped frequently to spot those black cockatoos. 
Once back we had lunch and a little rest in de campervan (I got vehemently sick just after lunch, maybe Rodie did try to poison me with those toasties....)  I had power nap while it rained outside, and then we drove off at 4pm. We hoped to spot some wildlife on the drive out, and maybe do the Prom Wildlife Walk if we had time and stamina. 

Emus spotted at dusk 

We spotted some wombats and a young fox, and than two emus! But then we got to the Wildlife Walk. We parked the campervan next to a meadow, and saw 5 emus! Even though there was a drizzle, we started the walk. A few hundred meters further we saw some kangaroos, and in the end a wombat. After some selfies it really was time to get going. Officially you have to leave the park before sunset. We had decided to go to a campsite in Yanakie, 5km north of the entrance. It was dark by the time we got here, but we made it! And then the office was closed, but luckily a quick phonecall to the manager gave direction on how to get in, and here we are: nice and snug, just have to consider what to do for dinner. 

Hungry wombat eats, doesn't care who's next to him


Thursday 28 July 2016

The three sisters - Katoomba

The first day of our road trip! We've picked up our campervan this morning in Sydney. A 9-year old with a mileage of over 480k... But a lot bigger than our spaceship, even though it's a mini campervan, especially for Australian standards.  

Loving the sunshine

We decided to start with an overnight trip to the Blue Mountains, and to take the scenic road there. We headed up to the Bells line of road. Whoa... That had some steep stretches. As Dutchies we're not used to anything but level roads; we were in for a change of terrain. 

View over Grose valley form Govetts Leap

We've downloaded a really good app: Campermate. It has all known campsites, including free sites, and shows prices, amenities and reviews. We can find a campsite near our current location, or on our route or add it as a destination in Google Maps. Really helpful. For this first day we picked Blackheath as our destination. According to Lonely Planet, 'the crowds and commercial frenzy fizzle considerably 10 km north of Katoomba in neat, petite Blackheath.' Well you can say that again...  That town was pretty dead, the most exiting thing we saw was the free wifi at an ATM. 

First 'home cooked' meal

Because it got quite chilly in the evening, we enjoyed the luxury of the table and benches insite our van, reading brochures and books while drinking coffee. The first thing we bought when we got this van was a French press coffee maker; coffee is super expensive here, and we've had too many instant coffees the last few weeks! Anyway, we went to bed early, since we didn't have much better to do. We were a little apprehensive whether Rodie would fit, but he did! (Well, his toes stuck out, but that would be nitpicking, right?) 

Grose valley

We woke up the next morning, and it was pretty windy. (But the reviews on Campermate had warned for that, too!)  After breakfast we drove to Govetts Leap Lookout. As is the habit in Australia we parked right at the lookout, very different from Europe where you usually park at the carpark and then walk the last couple of hundred metres. To make up for that lack of exercise we walked to the Burrow Lookout. And got a bit worried about our physical state, are we really in such a bad condition? Unfortunately our camera lens got overly tired too, and decided to break... No more auto zoom for now. Let's hope we can fix that problem once we get to Melbourne.
But we did have some gorgeous views over Grose Valley. Some panting and 40 minutes later we returned to the van. 

The three sisters and Jamieson valley

Our next stop was Katoomba, where the famous three sisters rock formations are. And all the tourists, Lonely Planet was right about that bit! Once there we decided we would stay the night, so we had time to do some leisurely walking, without worrying about parking fees and such. We got a site, and walked to Scenic World. Did a mention it was rather touristy? Here we could choose from several options: 
  • The Scenic Skyway (a gondola) from one cliff to the next past Katoomba Falls.
  • The Scenic Cable Car to go down to the Scenic Boardwalk.
  • The Scenic Railway to go down to the Scenic Boardwalk.
As some of you might know, I have an utterly irrational, near phobic, fear of gondolas and the like. So no way I would voluntary get in the first two! So we chose to go down with the Railway (which cost $19, and a day pass for all rides was $39!), and walk back up to the cliff. We quickly grabbed some lunch, and got in the ride. They advertise it as the steepest railway in the world at 52'... And boy, was it steep!
Almost a minute later we had reached the bottom station and got on the boardwalk. There were signs that gave some info in the mining history of the place. When we finished the boardwalk circuit, it was time to commence our ascent. 

The start of our walk up

The walk up took us about an hour, with regular viewing stops on the way. We are very happy we walked up. Probably 80% of the walk were stairs, so it was pretty strenuous. But both the view and the nature were well worth it. We walked past some waterfalls, a little creek, and nice rocky and mossy alcoves. And we really felt how the climate changes from down in the valley, humid and warm, to the cliff top, dry and windy. 

Part of the trail

It took us about an hour to walk up, so not too bad. And the exit of the trail was opposite our campsite so that was really good. But we didn't feel like walking into town to buy dinner after that, so we drove the van there. And then decided that we wanted to watch the sunset from one of the lookouts. As Echo Point in Katoomba is really busy, we speeded to Sunblime Point in nearby Leura, and just missed it. But even then, what a view! And whoa...  We were almost blown off the lookout as the wind has really got strong.

Lush nature

Back at the campsite we cooked a complete dinner insite the van, we even have a microwave! (Quite handy since our pots and pans are so big, only one at a time will go at the stove). After the cooking, the van really cooled down. By the time we were ready to make our bed, we both sitting under a blanket. Since our previous night had been pretty cold too, we opted for sleeping both in a our own sleeping bag, underneath an extra blanket. 
And the wind seemed like to grow stronger by the hour... At a certain point I was actually afraid it would top us over... That didn't happen in the end, but it wasn't our most relaxed night, waking because of the rocking and the cold. 
The next morning we drove off in search of warmer, less windy places.... 

We made it!

Wednesday 20 July 2016

Waterworld - Byron Bay

No, this is not about some crap Kevin Costner movie... But about Byron Bay, surfing town extraordinaire. The place where about 25% walks barefoot, every other shop sells or hires surfboards and is known for the perfect beginner waves. 

Beach access from our hostel

We checked in at the Backpackers Inn at the Beach, a very laid back hostel. Of course with its own surf school on site. After some deliberations I decided I would book a lesson, after all: if not now, then when? Rodie decided not to risk it, he would book advice at Julian Rocks instead. So the next morning, al psyched, I was ready for my lesson! Unfortunately my teacher was not: she called in sick. I decided to walk with Rodie into town to the dive shop. After all, I had nothing better to do.

Hanging out at the yard, it's s hard life

Now, Julian Rocks is apparently a really good dive spot. It's high up there in those top 10 lists. July is the season for grey nurses sharks, and since Rodie has a shark obsession, he wouldn't miss this chance. The 2 morning dives were already fully booked, but there were spots left on the afternoon dive, though it wasn't sure if that would run, because of the high winds. In the end we both booked that afternoon dive (I had nothing better to do remember?) even at a hefty price of $98 per dive. 

Sunset over the ocean, far right are Julian rocks

At 2pm we got back, and after signing our life away (you really can't do anything in Australia without signing liability waivers!), we got our gear. We put our suits on in the dive shop, then got in the van to the boat. That was strange. But we soon found out why. Because Byron has no harbour, you're launching off the beach, in a RIB. The tanks are in the middle, and we sat on the sites. Holding on for dear life. What a ride! It was 'a little choppy' as our skipper put it. We were soaked by the time we got to the rocks.

Byron surf lessons

We dove in a group of 5, four Dutchies and a Swedish guide. Just as we submerged we saw a Wobbegong shark, all exited we alerted each other. And then saw another few dozen of 'em... The bottom was really covered in Wobbegongs. Very cool! 
The water was quite murky though, about 8 meters visibility. A bit of an adjustment after the cristal clear waters up North, and we had to pay a bit more attention. But a few minutes into the dive we found them: three pretty big Grey nurse sharks! They were about 2 metres long, and we practically bumped into them, we swam a close as one metre or so. I had expected to find it a tad scary, but not at all! They weren't interested in us at all, and quietly swam off. We saw a few more during the dive. 
What else did we encounter? Loads of small fish (found Dory!) a turtle and a big school of rays. A good dive all in all. 

Strike a pose! Paparazzi shot of me during the lesson

The next morning my surf lesson happened, of course I was a good 15 years older than my classmates. And the only one that had never surfed before. Great... 
The surf in Byron is really good for beginners: continuous waves close to the beach, you just keep on trying. And I did! I managed to catch a few waves on my own, and stand on my board! Very proud of me. And exhausted after 2,5 hours. But I had fun!

On our way to the lighthouse

On our final day we had to walk to the lighthouse. Byron Bay is the most easterly point of mainland Australia, so of course we had to tick the box too. We were told it was about a 30-minute walk there, and happily set out after brunch. And got there about 1.5 hours later. 
It probably was a 30-minute walk from the parking lot. Or a 30-minut run from the hostel. It was a enjoyable walk though. But oh... My whole body was pretty sore from that surfing adventure, the price you have to pay for not acting your age!
On our walk we saw a bit more wildlife: 2 pods of dolphins playing, 8-9 humpbacks in 4 pods a bit further out, a company of gannets, and of course the lorikeets! 

Made it!

Now... As a final thought: it would be nice to have some interaction on this blog. Quite a few people asked for it before we went away, but so far there hasn't been a single reply. Which is a bit discouraging, since it takes quite some time and effort to get this online (Australia is certainly not known for free wifi) It's raining today, so I haven't got anything better to do, but in general: Should I continue blogging, or isn't it worth the effort?

Lorikeet

Tuesday 19 July 2016

Een sponsordag

We hebben van een paar vrienden een 'dag vakantie' kado gekregen 😊
We mochten €150 uitgeven deze dag, en het moest wel een leuke dag worden. Voor 18 juni was de weersverwachting goed, dus dat ging 'm worden, op basis van een wisselkoers van €1 = A$1,45 hadden we dus A$217,50 te besteden. 

Goede voorbereiding is t halve werk. Boodschappen voor ontbijt. 
Voor de administratie, we hebben maar 3 van de 6 eieren gebruikt en niet alle stroop, dus dat wordt natuurlijk gecorrigeerd!
   

Omdat het toch een beetje feest is: pannenkoeken!!!!
   

Zelfs met wat fruit, 't moet tenslotte een beetje gezond blijven.
  

Ons 'uitje' van vandaag is... dat we voor de lunch naar bills gaan. Dit is het restaurant van Bill Granger, een chef waar Lis fan van is.
We besluiten naar de oorspronkelijke bills te gaan in Darlinghurst, via Rushcutters Bay Park.
Daar gaan we, heerlijk zonnetje erbij, op naar de koffie. 
(Die is $3,80 en we delen altijd, lief hè?)
   


Lekker koffie gedronken bij de marina van Rushcutters Bay. Tussen alle uitgelaten honden.
En de mega lawaaiige kaketoes en kookaburra's. Echt waar, meeuwengekrijs is lieflijk gezang....
 

En dan is het er tijd voor..... bills... Van de zenuwen lopen we gewoon bijna verkeerd 😎
Maar gelukkig, we vinden het toch. Als goede toeristen lekker veel foto's genomen...
Omdat we weten dat er in het weekend regelmatig wachtrijen zijn gaan we op maandag. 
We zijn er om ongeveer kwart voor 1 en er zijn dan maar een paar tafeltjes bezet. 
Het wordt tijdens de lunch steeds drukker.
   

Helemaal blij met d'r eten.... Maar we hebben nog niet eerder zo duur geluncht!
Aan de andere kant valt het ook wel weer mee. Dit zijn hele normale prijzen voor een ontbijt/lunch hier, vandaar dat we meestal zelf koken. Ondanks dat het een bekend restaurant is, zijn de prijzen dus niet bovengemiddeld. 
   

Na de lunch liepen we naar de stad, ongeveer 20 minuten. 
Meestal wandelen we behoorlijk wat op een gemiddelde dag in de stad, dan zie je tenslotte het meest. 
Hier in Sydney zie je momenteel overal midwinterfestivals, en het is 20 graden! 
Ter demonstratie staat Rodie in een bak vol smeltende sneeuw 😎
  

We hebben lekker mensen gekeken en bij de fontein gehangen in Hyde Park.
   

De kerk van vandaag is St. Mary's Cathedral. (en St. James' Church, maar die is niet zo fotogeniek)
 

Na Hyde park liepen we naar het Queen Victoria Building. Erg gaaf gebouw. 
 

We hadden gepland daar een taartje te eten (nogmaals: het is feest hè) maar we zaten nog te vol van de lunch.
Dus besloten we maar een flesje water te kopen en verder te lopen. 
We moeten tenslotte nog over de Harbour Bridge lopen.
   

Daar gaan we, en het is zo'n gezellig voetpad!
   

Maar het uitzicht maakt dan wel weer een hoop goed.
 
 

Hierna hadden we niet zo'n zin meer om terug te lopen, dus de trein genomen naar Town Hall.
 

Toen hadden we eigenlijk wel zin in die koffie met gebak.... Maar waar zouden we gaan zitten?
Na wat rondlopen zijn we uiteindelijk terecht gekomen bij de Starbucks in Darling Harbour.
Uiteraard hebben we onze koffie en carrotcake weer gedeeld. Zo zijn we.
    

Na even uitgerust en te hebben liepen we weer verder. Even met water gespeeld in de Chinese Garden of Friendship (echt leuk!) 
En toen door naar Chinatown / Haymarket. Bij restaurant Mamak stonden de rijen al buiten, altijd een goed teken!
Zo vlak bij Chinatown kozen we uiteraard voor Maleisisch eten. Roti, curry en saté.
   

Het slagveld na afloop. Het gesprek tijden het eten bestond voornamelijk uit: 
'Mmmmmm...' 'Oeh!' 'Deze dan!' en 'Ah...'
   

Na deze buikbollende maaltijd gingen we weer naar het hostel. Te voldaan om nog te lopen.
Helaas was er geen budget meer voor een biertje 's avonds 😢
   
 

De samenvatting is dan:
 Ontbijt
$   9,73
  
 Koffie
$   3,80
  
 Lunch
$ 57,60 
  
 Water
$   1,30 
  
 Trein (2 pers.)
$   6,76 
  
 Starbucks 
$   9,25 
  
 Diner
$ 57,50 
  
 Trein (2 pers.)
$   4,72 
  
 Hostel
$ 65,10
  
 Totaal        $ 215,76   

Natuurlijk konden we alleen binnen budget blijven omdat we veel gelopen hebben. 
Eerst 10km en daarna ongeveer 4km.😱 
Je moet iets doen om al dat eten een beetje te compenseren....